I've seen LP working at Dicks here right up til close, and they were considering stopping me one night when I had already ditched because it didn't feel right. I live in a fairly populous urban area (1mil+) with a moderately high property crime rate.

Target is never a good target. You might get away with it X number of times, but they will always get you eventually.

Logitech is not source-tagged, at least in my experience. I've lifted c902 webcams, g502 mouse a lot of times, g pro wireless and wired mice, mx master wireless mouse, all kinds of peripherals from them and I am 99% certain I've never seen a tag inside their boxes. In almost all cases, at least for the good stuff, I did detach a alpha spiderwrap from their boxes off the shelf, which is normally how they are presented around here.

Yep. If anything the best advice is literally say nothing, except perhaps "Do not touch me, I do not consent to any search nor detainment." if there are any remaining doubts as you are briskly walking away.

Honestly LP is fucking laughing their asses off at anyone who tries to present a excuse for why they were just shoplifting. Do you really not think they have heard it all a million times? People always have this sudden change of heart right as they are caught, like "oh naww man I was gonna totally pay for that stuff, I just forgot." They do not give a fuck. You will be arrested. The police will be called, you will get a shoplifting charge relative to the amount of goods you were stealing. Everyday they bust someone, it's just another person who "forgot to pay". The law doesn't give a shit about you.

Power tools are almost always source tagged. For the big orange store and the big blue one here in the states, just open the box and check it out in a secluded part of the garden section real quick, especially if you know its a blind spot (either way its barely monitored, usually its blind AF though). Or purchase one of your desired targets legitimately, take it apart in your car, and find the tags. Immediately return it, or do the ol switcharoo and double-up by grabbing another while carrying your new receipt, especially if there are numerous exits and bonus points if you can remove the new tags in a blindspot too. Tags on tools can be very sneaky. Watch for tags clamped onto the power cord of any power tools or similar shit. They will look relatively normal and typically match the color of the cord. Here is a very common example, known to be on lots of different brands tools : https://anon.to/bemFZs

You need to block low frequencies if you want to block AM. EMI fabric can work for RFID just fine, but for AM you need something like nickle wire mesh, mu-metal, or other rare material. It's very hard to find information about this stuff, I know we had a thread about it like half a year ago, where some engineer was explaining why nickel wire mesh and mu-metal shielding were better than anything else. You can probably find it if you look through my post history or search for it. Copper wire mesh can work as well. Different mesh sizes work best for different frequencies, I think with low frequencies you can get away with lower mesh count, but I could be totally wrong on that. You want metal mesh, not that fabric bullshit. If its thin enough, it can still be used the same. You can even sandwich it between EMI fabric sheets. I'd recommend getting a portable AM tag detector as well to test your bags effectiveness easily. https://anon.to/?https://www.ebay.com/itm/EAS-Handheld-Detector-Tester-for-Antenna-Am-tag-or-label-58KHZ-/201439722291

lmfao.

The real answer is you just do a walkout somewhere with minimal protection. Most furniture stores are pretty easy. Also a lot of apartment complexes have patio furniture at their pool or office, so if you need fancy outdoor furniture, go to an upscale apartment complex at night, and just liberate some of their furniture.

Amazon is fairly secure. It definitely isn't as easy as you seem to think. You need to learn about SOCKS5 and user agents, geolocation, device fingerprinting, etc before you will be able to accomplish much with a card these days. Using a burner phone to place a store pickup order, and then printing out a fake paper ID in the card holder's name is the easiest method if temporary paper IDs are used in your state.Same rules as lifting, park very far away. Distort your photo slightly a few times on the paper ID so the facial dimensions are not near an exact match to your real face if you want to be extra careful, some stores like best buy will make a copy of it when you come to pick up. Also this method is far from guaranteed. On average, no carding method works more than 50% of the time, at least if you haven't created a BIN list for that target. That's why people buy tons of cards, they do lots of testing and determine which ones with specific bins and thus specific poorly-designed security mechanisms will work the best on their intended target storefront. Carding is hard work and honestly you are going to have to put your own effort into it, nobody will really help you, and you will just get scammed if you think you can come up and get paid without having to work hard at it and learn on your own, usually failing many times and burning thru numerous cards.

Approximately a half dozen times. That is over the course of a decade of shoplifting but still, almost all of those particular incidents happened within the last 2-3 years. Honestly though, my greater fear these days is being taken down physically by some renegade citizen, I rarely target stores with regular LP on site. The reality is that once you get hands put on you after the act of theft, no matter what happens in basically any situation, you are the bad guy and everyone who stopped you is the hero. The only way to challenge that narrative is with lawyers that are beyond my means to afford, and likely its only going to do something for you in civil not criminal court if it does anything at all, especially if they actually recovered shoplifted goods from you.

Yeah I agree, $1000 shitty day fund is a good idea. That seems fairly reasonable. I'd always just go for court appointed personally, because they are reliable in my area but of course YMMV.

"Hell, if they LP was to tackle me to the ground and drag me to their office they won't get any ID from me or my real name and certainly not my address, so a criminal record isn't really in the cards."

Woah homie, what? Your whole post was so on point until you came out of left field with that shit. If you get stopped at wal-mart and you don't have ID on you, the cops have already been called. They are coming to identify you and you are getting a citation or going to jail. If you had to be tackled, you are going to jail for assault because that hoe-ass loss prevention officer is a fucking punk and they will say you did all kinds of crazy shit that you didn't actually do, but it will be their word against yours and you will lose every time. If they tackle you, just go down. If you fight, you will be getting an assault charge, you don't have to hit them, you just have to resist to any significant degree. YOU WILL CATCH AN ASSAULT CHARGE. The more you struggle, the more evidence of assault you are providing with each movement while resisting their attempts to detain you until police can arrive. There is usually always two LP present any time I've been physically stopped by force, they don't go hands on without clear 5 steps and all that, somebody who worked the cams while the other worked the floor and confirmed you didn't ditch anything. If you realize you are being tailed at wal-mart, ditch everything at the bathroom. Or at least pretend like you ditched everything in the bathroom, the LP have to enter to check that you did or didn't before stopping you so do it right before leaving. They are technically breaking wal-mart's rules unless its obvious you still have the goods in your pants or whatever the case may be.

Everything else you wrote is totally true and golden though, 100% I agree. These silly part-timers need to watch their own ass because if you are this shook from getting a ticket, some class C misdemeanor bullshit, go ahead and get the fuck out of the game right now. Everyone who shoplifts will catch a class C or class B at some point. It's going to happen. If you can't accept that and take it in stride, stop stealing now before it happens to you. Nobody gets away clean every time. They will stop your ass on the day you aren't expecting. They will catch you slippin, and if you can't deal with that reality and the potential fallout, stop committing crime. The self-check out "buy some stuff, but don't buy the expensive stuff tho" technique is not practiced by professional lifters for a reason. Boosters grab and fucking go, Gone in 60 seconds. They don't pay for shit and they don't dick around. They move with a quickness and with purpose. The main difference is that they always have that bail money, because they already know how it is.

If you can get away with this method, you could have just walked out with a receipt in your hand. Buying things while stealing is for chumps. If store security is on you, they are on you. You can't feign ignorance. I don't know why you people think shoplifting somehow isn't illegal if you pretend like you didn't know you were doing it.

Best Buy is one of the hardest stores to pull off something like this. You should highly consider stealing other small things from different places, work up to buying a computer and building it yourself, because that will be a better rig and more bang for the MSRP than some gaudy gamer prebuilt anyways.

Or you can check out how great you look in a jumpsuit with a splash of silver bling, your call.

Do you use FBA? Ive been curious about that process.

Plenty of chain bikestores exist that aren't really local businesses. Also any expensive bikes they have should be insured.

I just wanna say in case anyone ends up looking at this later; this guy is 100% correct. All of this is solid advice. If you get drugs mailed to your normal address, simply ensure you know how they will arrive, preferably dropped into your mailbox. Don't get anything with signature confirmation, any decent dark web vendor will know if they require signature on delivery, and I highly recommend you don't buy from anyone who does ship with signature required. For some countries though its hard to get packages reliably through the international postal system without SOD, I just use alternative options. If you know you aren't supposed to have anything with signature, then you know that the shady looking mailman asking you to sign on the dotted line here, while wearing a pair of combat boots, something just ain't right about that. But if your hand grabs that pen and touches the paper, they will clap those bracelets on your ass so quick. All you have to do is refuse delivery, you aren't expecting any packages. EZ

I also find that the graphic novels, RPGs, etc wrapped in plastic are usually good to go if they don't have any tags on the plastic itself. You gotta watch out for the ones that arent wrapped up.

If there is a tag in a barnes and noble book, you can find it between the pages. It's usually just stuck on a random page, and it's usually a ~1"x 1" blank white sticker. Most books don't have any tags though. Primarily really expensive stuff like technical books, textbooks, etc or heavily boosted stuff like anything somewhat pricey and nerdy/RPGs/anime/graphic novels.

but I've been doing this so long I go lazy and complacent

BINGO

That's what gets everyone eventually. Every time I have caught a case you could basically chalk it up to that exact same thing. Once they get you in the system for some shit it really doesn't help either, but pretty much any time I have ever been arrested it's because I was actually just straight up slipping all on my own, not on top of my game like I was in the past, yet I was still acting like nothing had changed. I'm committing all kinds of crime and pretending I am being as careful and attentive as always, but if I had taken time to think before acting and truly listened to my gut feelings, I knew I was on some dumb, sloppy, lazy type shit. Almost anybody who has ever spent some time locked up has experienced this phenomena, usually time and time again. Most people set ourselves up for failure, and for those who try to live an outlaw life without getting the complimentary bracelets, I'mma let you know right now it is impossible to be constantly vigilant. Even if you could maintain it for some time, it will wear you down eventually, and then you will be tired, complacent, or careless just like everyone else. It's all about learning to spot where you are at in these cycles so you can know when you need to step back, adjust your thinking, and get yourself back on track.

I dunno how long you have been lifting for, but I'm gonna go ahead and assume you are fairly new. No offense but everyone gets caught, and it usually involves hubris, this type of thinking, etc. You need to watch your own ass because nobody else is gonna do it for you. Seriously, everyone gets caught. It just depends when and how bad. If you are out lifting every day or even every week or two, you will get caught at some point.

Also you can pretty easily make it look like you either must have been given a key by an employee, or otherwise acquired one from their location, etc. Make the store security waste all their time and energy going down that rabbit hole to nowhere, looking for a duplicate of a key that was never actually compromised, looking for the shady employee that probably recruited her crackdealer boyfriend uncles baby momma daddys homeboys to come put in work, because we all know Darnell done been to prison before, and because Shantae was the only one with the key that week, and I know she be taking makeup on her break, or whatever crazy shit those dumbasses come up with to explain how you walked up, and had the shit open in less than 5 seconds. If you are good at this, they'll never have footage of the original impressioning of the lock, or if they do it will be too obscured to see what really happened, somebody conveniently bodyblocking the only nearby cameras, etc. You just have to find out where to hit and when, and that's not really something I can break down in a post, nor would I. If you can't get it crackin now that I've dropped a few little gems here, you were probably going to get caught anyways. If somebody wants to treat lifting like a job, then treat it like a job and do your shit properly. I could give you all the tutorials in the world and it won't do shit for you in the long run with this kind of thing. It requires the right person. Either its you or it aint. If it aint, stick to boosting of legos or some easy shit and stack your chump change up real high until you can buy the shit you want that is on the other side of that tubular lock.

Both of you are correct in some ways, but really you should consider looking into this particular method more yourselves.

1. Worst case scenario, you aren't getting a more hefty charge than getting caught with an S3 key would already be. If you are already hitting felony theft limits, this enhancement is likely trivial, could probably be dropped depending on your priors and legal situation overall. Really this varies a lot, varies from state to state, judge to judge, rap sheet to rap sheet. Overall though, this shit is way over hyped. People would be going to poundtown penitentiary all the time because they got caught stealing flintstones vitamins and Spy Kids 2 on DVD with a box cutter in their pocket. Burgulary tools, robbery enhancement, etc is more complex and less scary of an issue than you fearmongers make it seem.

2. You can use a tubular lockpick to decode a lock and then unlock the same lock later. Once you decode it, your tubular pick now functions as a key from that point forward unless that lock gets rekeyed by a locksmith. You can also measure the appropriate depth for each pin, and produce a legitimate looking key with a basic tubular key cutter, this can all be acquired for a couple hundred dollars of investment and you could produce basically unlimited keys as a result, or you could simply reproduce a variety of different locks matching key from a single tubular lock pick if you took meticulous notes, but it is possible.

3. The process for picking many (many but not all, some are randomly exceptionally hard due to their pins and associated tolerances, so you will have to know when you just need to walk away by honing your awareness and skill) tubular locks is very simple and fast. Walmart and many retailers often use ACE tubular locks, and although some are now being upgraded to more secure options, instead of 7pin 7.8mm which was formerly the standard for US tubular locks. https://youtu.be/uX34NCwxnMw?t=264 Here is bosnianbill attacking one in a matter of seconds, literally less than 10 seconds.

Now the main downsides of tubular lockpicks are as follows:

1. You need a fairly specific pick depending on the lock. There is 7pin center, 7pin left and right offset, and 8pin, as well as 10pin and other weird ones that are relatively uncommon for pretty much any application. You also need to be aware of the barrel size required to impression your target lock, as they can range from ~6mm or so in weirdo baby tubular locks, all the way up to 8mm, probably even more. Some of these sizes are basically just unpickable with this type of tool because they are too oddball. Other common sizes like 7.8 you will see all the time, especially here in the US. You will also need to obtain practice locks and you will need to use them. It's a skill that takes time, some people will learn it fast and others it will take a lot of time. But if you work hard at it, tubular locks are exceptionally vulnerable overall because there is only so much security they can impliment. Even the most secure, hardcore, made in germany tubular lock can be single pin picked using a tubular tension wrench, and it's really not even that hard compared to a normal lock. The keyway is so slutty its crazy, that bitch is wide open, you can see her pins clearly. Its honestly very naughty once you know what to look for. Here the LPL demonstrates how to SPP a tubular https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jY9PJxVWORE As you can see, it's still pretty damn fast and this can defeat the majority of security features that are even possible in this keyway format.

2. Some locks are vastly more vulnerable than others. This is a minor limitation when dealing with retail environments because they often have locks that are keyed alike and thus all you may need is 1 in a private-ish spot at the right time, plus there are many stores with many locks for you to try and test their security level and ease of picking. If they aren't keyed alike, they may still be keyed in a predictable manner. Once you get a feel for individual locks it makes more sense, you can tell pretty quick when you have found a vulnerable one. It should never take more than a minute, and I'd say more than 50% of locks currently in use at retailers are more like 10-20 second jobs if you have balls of steel and ice in your veins.

The main downside for most people is If you don't have that kind of temperament, if you are skittish and nervous, don't bother. It's not for you. You may need lookouts, you may need something to get the job done, but once you have impressioned it, you have a key and it's likely nobody is aware that you have a key to this display. If you are in walmart, you wear blue and khaki. People barely acknowledge you if you scope out the spots, play smart, and get out if anything is off. The fact that you can pick it, then come back later and actually reap the reward is the beauty of it. You would also be surprised how often you will totally not end up on the news, retailers don't want to admit how vulnerable their systems may be to this kinda thing because then they'll just start getting copycats.

This is the process for cutting a new key. It's honestly not hard, it's just tedious and requires practice and concentration. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Q9oc4yZluA

If you want to learn more, those channels are nearly all you need. There are some lockpicking forums for both hobbyists and pros that will fill in the rest of the gaps. Beyond that you just need tools and time to practice. It's not easy but this kind of attack can take you to the next level of this game. You may need a crew to take full advantage of it for sure though, fake plates, planning, distractions, disguises, whole 9 yards, but you could be looking at payouts of $5,000+ from a single lick if you get the right display open at the right time. Shit that is very easy to resell. Yes you will need to travel to make it viable and safe-ish, but thats true for anyone hitting those kind of numbers from boosting. I'd actually say this is way safer than some of the ways people usually get big big hauls, I'd put it way above a typical exit door dash, or something odd like a stockroom shopping trip with fake uniforms or whatever. It's all about finding the softest targets with the best potential payouts, because I assure you there are stores where nobody is ready for this, especially not 4am at some mid-tier walmart that normally clocks <1% shrinkage.

I think you are getting a few different things mixed up. Also this info applies to the USA only AFAIK, but I can imagine it wouldn't be vastly different elsewhere. There is a database that is accessed when you submit returns, especially returns without a receipt, returns for store credit, etc and most major retailers are signed up for that service here. This is often why they ask you for ID when making a return, it's a big list of DL#s and names, along with basically an itemized list of every potentially sketchy return you have ever made. Beyond highly specific databases like that, most stores refrain from sharing too much data of any kind with other retailers. Sometimes store security personnel participate in ORC regional task forces and whatnot but that is really coordinated more so by law enforcement than industry-wide cooperation between all these different stores. If you really think about it, it would be bad for their business to share too much data on shoplifters with other stores in many cases. They are better off securing their own stores as much as possible, so they can position themselves to look effective at stopping lifters while leaving the competition looking soft. This is why you don't see Target and Walmart or Home Depot and Lowes sharing data. They might cooperate if shown very significant incentive, especially when talking about like heavy heavy hitting ORC groups that are just cleaning places out left and right and would otherwise be a lot harder for all the stores involved to track and take precautions against if they weren't actively sharing at least some BOL info, but this is only going to affect pros, and even then it doesn't necessarily kill their hustle if they can switch up and move around, change MOs if they feel eyes on their operation. If you don't get caught somewhere, or pay with your card while boosting, something else dumb along those lines, what information or name would they add? There isn't a big database full of random photos of unidentified people (who are also guilty until proven otherwise and in many states have to be basically stopped at the door with the merch on them to actually face real charges) hitting licks right quick at their local grocery store. If you think you have heated out your local stores, you might have, it never hurts to drive as far as you can tolerate and then hit some virgin stores you haven't raided before. But the majority of stores don't share information with each other in any meaningful way that would target small timers such as yourself (their regular shopper data, let alone something more rare and juicy like shoplifter data, is literally priceless to them and they've spent many many years amassing it all, the last thing they want is to share it in any way with direct competitors, their years worth of consumer data and brand recognition/"trust" is all major retailers have at this point, besides access to distribution and hopefully capital to keep stuff coming in and the lights on) Plus they worry about the potential for misuse too, they don't wanna get rolled up into some massive privacy media circus, nobody is trying to be the next Zuckernerd.

It's really easy if you have an older Switch model. If you have a newer one, a "patched" switch, there are some people working towards making custom firmware and other homebrew/pirate goodies available, and a new exploit has just been released recently that might help you out.

The only thing you will need is a jig to get your switch into RCM mode, you can either buy one or I made mine by folding up a little piece of tinfoil and very carefully taping it into place. Once you get your switch hacked you won't need this since you can setup AutoRCM which I recommend, keeps it from booting into the normal firmware ever. Also keep in mind you probably will have trouble using your switch like normal or going online in games anymore, unless you want to mess with EmuNAND and that's a whole nother rabbit hole you can go down entirely on your own.

I actually just did this process a few days ago myself, starting from no knowledge about the switch but a background in modchipping and whatnot for basically the last 3 generations of consoles prior, and it only took me about a day to get everything figured out and games booting up without problems on my switch. If you don't know shit about shit, I'd say 1 week tops and you could probably have it all figured out, depending on how determined you are. Just be sure to backup your data like the guides will advise you to do, it's very important in case you fuck up badly.

Here is a guide on how to do most of the complicated parts of this process: https://switch.homebrew.guide/:

Use this tool to make an SD card and push it payload onto your switch: https://www.sdsetup.com/switch (Kosmos is good for beginners, Pegascape is the new exploit for patched switches)

You can get pirated games here: https://darkumbra.net/ typically you want to use .NSP instead of .XCI, install using Goldtree from your cfw homebrew menu. I recommend just buying a 1fichier premium account if you don't want to waste your life.

If this is all too complicated for you, just buy a SX OS pro dongle for $40, follow it's instructions, and download some .xci copies of the games you want.

The main problem is that barcodes are basically always printed using something like thermal, laser, or dye sublimation. If you have access to a thermal label printer or even just a simple consumer-grade laser printer, you want to use that instead of a inkjet any day. No matter what tbh.