Indeed, the only way to "go vegan" is to completely remove oneself from the entire food production system of neoliberal markets. But if you've constructed a way to bypass capitalism's stranglehold on food production and distribution, why would you identify as a consumer with a label like "vegan" anyway? Maybe you want to eat the eggs your chickens produce, or eat their meat once they die a natural death, without having to self-flagellate over the moral implications of a now-irrelevant critique of the food system's abuses?

Well, maybe if one is anarcho-moralist, one wants to do that. How else will one get off?